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The heart of the city has been beating here since Antiquity.

Monuments, statues and major department stores adorn and liven up the town square.

Place de Jaude in its 21st century incarnation offers passing strollers a subtle blend made of rising jet fountains, magnolias, tulip trees and selected minerals.

While they watch the “Fleur de Lave” (Lava Blossom) tram go by…